Nestled within the misty mountains of Japan’s Ishikawa Prefecture lies Yamanaka Onsen, a village filled with craft and culture. Hannah Kirshner found herself captivated by its charm, lured by the promise of a deeper connection with nature. Almost a decade later, this town is no longer just a destination—it’s home.
The allure of Japan’s countryside is undeniable. For Hannah, initially, it was about understanding craft culture. Today, Yamanaka Onsen is where she cultivates friendships, renovates old homes, and finds inspiration for her writing. What began as a temporary move has transformed into a vibrant and fulfilling life journey.
A Chance Encounter with a Mountain Village
Hannah Kirshner’s journey to Yamanaka Onsen began after a stint in Kyoto, where she embraced the bike messenger culture. When the opportunity arose for an apprenticeship in this town, she leapt at the chance. She discovered artists, craftsmen, and a community that resonated deeply with her.
Yamanaka Onsen isn’t just a scenic village. It’s a tapestry of traditions woven through centuries, famed for its hot springs and rich crafting heritage. Kirshner found herself drawn not just to its beauty, but to the vibrant community and artistry that thrived there.
Building a Life from a Farmhouse
Living in Yamanaka Onsen wasn’t Hannah’s initial plan. However, she fell in love with the community she was documenting. Inspired, she purchased a kominka—an old, wooden house, and dove into renovations, embracing local materials and eco-friendly designs.
Hannah’s commitment to local living extended beyond her homes. She enjoys morning walks with her neighbor’s Shiba Inu and tends to her garden. Each day blends seamlessly into the next as she balances writing, renovating, and forging meaningful connections.
The journey wasn’t without its challenges. Renovating old homes in a new country comes with its hurdles, especially with language barriers. However, the supportive community and rewarding lifestyle made every effort worthwhile.
Navigating Life as a Foreigner
Though Hannah had studied Japanese, daily life in Yamanaka posed new challenges. From deciphering mail to conversing in the local dialect, she continued learning and adapting.
Her path to residency was facilitated by community support and connections she had cultivated over the years. Establishing her identity in Yamanaka meant engaging with the village traditions and earning trust.
Living in rural Japan meant relying on informal networks. Her guardian angel neighbor guided her through local customs and expectations, strengthening her bond with the community. Patience and respect for collective consensus soon became part of her routine.
A Niche in Writing
In Yamanaka, Hannah found her niche—writing about Japanese crafts and rural life. The opportunity to cover these subjects was more accessible compared to the competitive New York scene.
Her residency allowed Hannah to immerse herself deeply, gathering nuanced insights and stories the village had to offer. This new focus enriched her creativity and fueled her passion.
Yamanaka became a muse for her book, Water, Wood & Wild Things. Documenting its cultural tapestry, she nurtured her connection to the village and its people.
Cultural Traditions and Community
For Hannah, learning about local traditions meant immersing herself in community events like shrine cleanings and neighborhood meetings.
Engaging in these activities deepened her understanding of Japanese culture, where consensus and community harmony are prioritized over individual pursuits.
The integration with village life helped Hannah appreciate the subtleties of the local customs, forming lasting relationships and enriching her life experience.
Everyday Life in Yamanaka
Morning routines begin with chats by the kitchen window or gardening tasks, making each day a blend of work and community.
Afternoons are for writing, complemented by visits from curious crows—a delightful routine that keeps Hannah connected to nature and her creative pursuits.
Visits to the local onsen and farmer’s markets blend daily life with Yamanaka’s traditions, creating a rhythm that both embraces the old and welcomes the new.
A Place to Call Home
Hannah sees Yamanaka Onsen as her forever home, drawn to the tranquility it offers compared to New York.
However, family ties in the U.S. keep the idea of returning alive, making her cherish every moment spent within this mountain village.
The allure of Yamanaka lies in its ability to provide what the bustling city could not—community, nature, and a sense of belonging.
Challenges and Life Lessons
Living abroad isn’t without challenges. From navigating tax laws to securing visas, each step required careful attention.
Specialist advice proved invaluable, especially about taxes and immigration, saving Hannah from costly mistakes and ensuring peace of mind.
Despite the challenges, the experience in Yamanaka has been a rewarding one, offering personal growth and a deeper appreciation for life’s simple pleasures.
Harmony with Nature
Yamanaka Onsen’s natural beauty offers solace and inspiration to Hannah. The serene environment enhances her connection to the world around her.
Living amidst the mountains fosters a sense of calm. The impactful changes of seasons, from vibrant wildflowers to melodious cicadas, weave into her daily life.
Interaction with the environment, like feeding the local crows, adds layers of joy and meaning to Hannah’s life.
Choosing Yamanaka Onsen wasn’t just about relocation—it became a journey of discovery and belonging.
The village, with its warm community and stunning natural landscape, has provided Hannah Kirshner with not just a home but a place to thrive.
